Saturday, June 7, 2014

New Dehli to Amritsar the Hard Way!

7 June, day one of this bright idea........

Todays route  Dehli to Amritsar .....check it out



It doesn't take a wise man to be uncomfortable....... 


I wish I could put into words how painful today was.....in a good way I guess.  12 hours to cover 300 hundred miles.  We arrived in one pieces at the holy city of Amritsar, Punjab, India.  After taking 30 minutes to find the motorcycle shop (2KM) from our hotel, in the dark, with the hotel cab driver, we were out the door on the bikes at 6.........one hour fashionably late.  Made it out of Dehli around 7:00 and on the road north for twelve hours of madness, heat and adventure as usual.  Everybody we talked to said we wouldn't make it.....bad traffic....in India??????, ya don't say, mechanical issues, the standard crap.  Most of the route I would have to say wasn't bad until showing up inside the walls of the Golden Temple, that is where our hotel is.  Our days of hot water ended at 4am this morning.  The cold ass water did wonders for my body temperature which I'm sure was close to the outside air temperature.......117 bills.....Is there like a heat wind bake factor?  Ya got wind chill in winter!  If you look at the link above from Google earth  it looks green........green my ass.......it was three hundred miles of scorched earth and 25 mile an hour winds.  Enough bitching, I'm on vacation right?  Down with the facts!

Loving life, despite my Royal Enfield Hoopty sounding like 79 Honda Civic with collapsed lifters and the engine knocking like the main bearing is about the drop out the side of the case, thing runs pretty good.  Lotta torque, peoples machine......hauls ass to 70.....kilometers dude, that's like 45 miles an hour right Ivan?

Two and half hours into the next three weeks of my life, feeling slightly overconfident, my Canadian wing man decides to blow out his rear tire to see what effects the heat has on us changing it with zero shade.......you know there's ZERO freaking shade in the country right?  The little Dhabas on the side of the  road that serve food, they didn't get the memo......20 year old tarps don't block the sun, they radiate heat......crazy.  We pull over on the shoulder.....or is that the passing lane?....look over to the left.....you know we are driving on the wrong side of the road right?..... and..... BOOM, looks like the prayers, incense and sweets paid off.  World, meet Alli Ging (pronounced Zing)....the dudes putting a clutch in this big ass diesel tractor.






Booooo......

Me and Canuck Numero Uno have the rear wheel Nascar'd off in five minutes and Alli sends his young apprentice to the puncture joint across the highway for a little old school patch job.  I missed the picture of Winston with the tire in one hand and holding on for dear life as this dude rally's out of their shop.  Thirty minutes we are back on the road living the dream.

We ride fifteen minutes and stop to get more water and get gas.....these dudes were cool.  The Punjab's are very proud and despite the filth in the air and the dirt everywhere, they are very well kept.  They never ask for tips......which is rampant in Dehli and they are just really genuine people.  I tried to give the little kid in the picture 50 large......a buck 'Murrrican..... and he wouldn't take it.  He didn't even look over at his boss for permission.  He was really smart with these digital air machines here, ya punch in the numbers and it auto fills to that pressure.....except the craps in in/kg.....which I couldn't figure out.....Over to Ivan again on that one.

That ain't dirty hand prints on a brand new Dri-Fit shirt, it's road grime and dirt in the air.  Ya should see my toofs!  Don't be alarmed, that is Winston's actual look.  He calls them "throw aways."  Wears them for three or four days and shit cans them.  



Wazzzup?

Now we drone for two more hours......so side note.... I'm not a big fast food guy, but we decided to stop at the usual western poison establishments to.....ya know, like do a taste test comparison....and of course to sit in the A/C.  First stop, KFC for a Pepsi and some waters.  What the hell is Veg chicken strip.  Is it Veg or Chicken?.....Its Veg with the chicken strip coating stuff on the outside.  Next stop at 3 pm, Mickey Mother Scratch'n D's.......best decision of the day.  I just had water.......four dudes roll up on Enfields.....we start talking and one of the dudes is a helo pilot in the Indian Airforce.......CO, been in sixteen years.  We exchange digits and emails.....gonna try and do dinner in Dehli 24 June.  They were pretty cool guys and I invited him and his family back to the hood to do some riding next summer.  This stuff seems to just fall in my lap.   


I am declaring victory and powering down.






Friday, June 6, 2014

Africa Hot and further into the jungle

....touched down at 1 am to 95 degrees and a sporty 87% humidity, little did we know we hadn't seen anything yet.  Airtel cell joint was open and we were out the door in 15 minutes with international sim cards for 30 bucks and 1100 minutes of of talk time.......beats my second car payment I have with AT&T back in the hood.

Hotel gooned our airport taxi pick-up, so it's out to the cab stand and into the madness......uneventful to our hotel other than cabbie has zero clue where it is at and stops every 5 minutes to ask drunk Auto Rickshaw guys where Hotel Bonlon is.......finally two nice older gentleman in front of a hotel 6 blocks from ours points us in the right direction.......the smog and the heat are relentless!

In bed by 2:30am and pop one of the greatest inventions in the history of mankind......no..... it doesn't require calling your doctor for erections lasting more than four hours.....


Ohhh Ambien.....

Flying half way around the world? Try planning on landing in the middle of the night, pop one of these and poof......wake up at 11am local time and yer ready to roll.  No jet lag, no wasting a precious day of adventure, no big deal! 

In search of bikes.....

Had a good idea of who we were going to rent from based on research on ADVrider and BCMtouring, the Oracles of all things adventure on two wheels.  Out of the hotel and into Winston's first ride in a Auto Rickshaw.....I love these things and at a buck across town, how could you possibly beat that?





Nice horse 'eh.....

Motored up to Abdul Azziz and alley 55.....Boom!  Meet Lalli Singh, Royal Enfield restoration, rental, exporting........you name it Guru.  Walked around the shop to check things out and readied for 10km test ride with one of his dudes.  Pretty impressive operation! Many of his guys' having worked there 10-15 years,  they all had different jobs and were meticulous in tearing down and working on the bikes.  No A/C, tight quarters and hotter than hell working in this small space, but they seemed really happy and always had smiles on their faces.  Over the course of the day, we had lunch, talked politics, about our families, and had a lot in common with these gentleman.  At the end of the day we all agreed on these three things:   politicians suck, be kind to others and YOUR BIKE and they will be good to you; and my all time favorite:  "Mr David, that is no problem."

The Garage



They Boys


The Adult supervision



Tore this thing down in 10 mintues



Not a mechanic......




Let's do this.......


Dude......where's my KTM?????

You can read all you want about the psychology and descriptions of driving and riding in Dehli traffic.......it is organized chaos.  It is very apparent right off the bat........tonnage has the right away and these people are experts at making five feet of vehicle fit in six inches of space.  We motored around our little escorted 10km loop, stopped for gas and for water and brought the bikes back in one piece. 
The heat is impossible to describe, it was 117F during  our ride and it was suffocating......like sitting there with a hair dryer on hot 3 inches from your grill.  This place makes Africa hot feel like winter in Manitoba........I guess it's cold there, that's what Winston told me.  Even the guys at the garage said it was miserable.......crazy!  Have I mentioned the heat is relentless?



Closed the deal.......



1950s Technology at it's best

Ready to roll
 
Paperwork is done, bikes are loaded and the shop performs a prayer ceremony to bless every bike that rolls out the door, a safe journey to the Bozos' that try this stuff and sweets are distributed to everyone.

Minalli is one of their head mechanics and also Muslim.  We lit the incense, and he let her rip........20 minutes later......Allah was officially on board.

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Please god hold together, please god hold together........

Tomorrow we ride!





  

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Airport Security 2 - Dynamic Duo Nil



11 hour torture chamber.......

Air China mathematics........Vancouver Intl with two bags to check and a carry on.  Dude at the counter weighs my bags.........said suitcase with enough tools to rebuild a car let alone an Enfield weighs 31 KGs..........another bag weighs 14 KGs but not as big as the Winnebgo disguised as a suitcase I'm dragging around the airport.  Cat behind the counter informs me limit on bags is 23KGs.  So.........I say my other bag is only 14.  Pissed glare and raises his voice......."23 KG per bag, you need to repack your bags or 200 dollars"........dang dude relax.  No shit, I open my bags and cram stuff into my other one......get the Winnie down to 23.7......"more" he says......lmao....are you F'n kidding me bro?  Crammed my wiener dudes and stuff dry bag into my bike tail bag and boom!  He looks at the scale with disappointment in his eyes.....19.8.  I looked at him and said "How ya like me now?"

Trying to wind down after my Packing Malfunction......

Nice gut bro, how bout some posture?.....




Beijing Intl, surprisingly quiet.  In a country with over a billion people and literally the center of the spokes for airlines throughout China, we roll in there at 4pm local and the joint is a ghost town.  It's an open air airport the size of the King Dome (RIP) and the place was empty.  Had some lunch, they didn't know what was affectionately known to Winston as a fork.  You could make a Reality Show solely based on Winston learning how to use chopsticks.......so it was a spoon for him.  


Chopsticks 101......gotta get outa Calgary more


Walking back to our gate, out of no where comes two dudes, right out of the movies......asks Winston to see his passport and without taking a breath...... "Come with us"......see ya dude, I'll send ya pictures from my trip in the Himalayas.  By the way, our planes boarding right now.  I get in line and Canada's finest disappears down a walkway.......Boom, another dude, zero personality, zero english and and probably still pissed about the beat down over the Winter Olympics hauls me down a walkway........and low and behold there's the Winnebego fresh off her Van Coo Coo weight loss evolution.  Dude tells me to open my bag and it looks like a bomb went off in it.  Everything is open tossed to high hell.  Corporal Personality busts out five pages of X-ray images from bag and starts asking questions.........mean while......Winston coughs up chain lube and some other crap out of his bag.  Dudes want his Spot tracker?  Yer joking right?  Winston tells them to pack sand and they release him to the  airplane.  My harassment package........appears they pull every cool tool and gizmo out and tell me I can't take it.....WTF over?  SPOT, Gerber Tool, tire inflation tools......yo man, I know there are 1.2 billion bikes in this country but don't take all my Enfield emergency medical equiptment .......try Amazon......no wait, you can't because it's blocked, as was Google Blog, Facebook, and 20 other news websites I tried searching for while sitting in the airport for 4 hours.  Keep trying, there's always the 2016 Olympics! 



Not our actual dude, but you get my drift


Only about 80 people on our flight.  Found five open seats in row 39 and slept 5 of the last 7 hours........SchlepRock out!  

Long Road to Dehli

Let the madness begin.......


D -2
.....and hanging in the airport after a fun day and a half around Vancouver, or more affectionately labeled by Winston as Van Coo-Coo.  Spent yesterday at the Aquarium and then made our way down to Granville Island where we spent the night.  Cool little place, a little touristy, but lots of restaurants, a huge public market and quite a few restaurants. 
Spotted Alberta's finest coming back from a walk and headed in for beers at the hotel to look over some maps and figure out where the hell we're going. 

Back together again



Dynamic Trio.....

Long way Round 2020?


 Three smiles and everyone's eyes open, victory................





Off to the largest democracy on earth........